A long time ago, the city of Edinburgh was known as “Auld Reekie.” This was back in the days of peat fire smog, overpopulation, and a lack of modern plumbing. Add to this a stagnant Nor Loch (which was polluted with everything from waste to dead bodies), and you probably can figure out where the “Reekie” came from.
Thankfully, Edinburgh has come a long way since then.
I'll never forget my first trip to Edinburgh. It was at the tail end of my very first trip to Europe, and I arrived on the train from London right smack in the middle of the city's festival season in August. I hadn't done my research beforehand, and was totally surprised by this timing. It was great, though – I explored the city AND enjoyed the Fringe Festival at the same time.
It was on that first trip that I totally fell in love with Edinburgh. The city is filled with history (both its Old and New towns are UNESCO World Heritage Sites), amazing architecture, plenty of Scottish culture, and not one but TWO castles!
If you've never been to “Auld Reekie” before, here are my suggestions for what to do with three days in the city. (And don't worry – they figured out those plumbing issues ages ago.)
72 Hours in Edinburgh
On your first day in Edinburgh, I recommend focusing on its most famous sites. We'll dub this day “Iconic Edinburgh.”
Edinburgh's most famous attraction by far is the Royal Mile. Though “attraction” isn't really the right word, since the Royal Mile is so much more than just a singular thing to see.
Here you'll find everything from pubs to tartan shops, and the pedestrian-only section is usually filled with street performers. As you make your way up (or down) the Royal Mile, check out the following:
St. Giles Cathedral
You can't miss this 14th-century cathedral with is crown-shaped steeple on the Royal Mile. Not only is the church beautiful on the outside, but it's just as pretty on the inside, too. Pop in to see the stained glass windows, pretty blue ceiling, and intricate Thistle Chapel.
Scotch Whisky Experience
Near the Edinburgh Castle, you'll come upon the Scotch Whisky Experience. Even if you don't love whisky, this is something worth doing. You can take a variety of tours that promise to help you “become a ‘one-hour-whisky-expert,'” and also see a collection of more than 3,300 bottles of Scotch whisky. (.)
Camera Obscura and World of Illusions
If you're in the mood for a more fun way to spend an hour or two, check out the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions right next to the entrance to Edinburgh Castle. This interactive museum is filled with optical illusions and fun puzzles – and the tower gives you some great views out over the city.
Visit a castle
You can't really visit Edinburgh without visiting a castle (after all, remember that there are two of them here!).
Edinburgh Castle, sitting proudly at the top of the Royal Mile, is the castle that you'll see the most often since it's visible from many parts of the city. And while the ancient fortress is pretty cool, I find the entrance fee (currently £16.50) a bit steep for what you can actually see. Edinburgh Castle has not been occupied for centuries, so what you'll find inside consists mostly of the crown jewels of Scotland and some military exhibits.
(If you do visit and want to get more out of your time there, pick up that includes a guided tour.)
Palace of Holyroodhouse
If you want my honest opinion, I think that visiting the Palace of Holyroodhouse is more worth it. This palace at the bottom of the Royal Mile only costs £12.50 to tour, and offers the added bonus of still being an official royal residence. Holyroodhouse is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, and the Queen comes to stay (and throw a huge party) every summer.
You can view the State Apartments (which are still used), as well as the former chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots. When I visited, they also had a special display of some of the dresses Queen Elizabeth has worn throughout her reign. Outside the palace, you'll find some beautiful grounds, as well as the ruins of the Holyrood Abbey. This was all much more interesting for me than Edinburgh Castle.
Edinburgh has a very long history – and not all of it nice. There are various tours you can take to explore the darker side of the city, from nighttime ghost tours to after-dark historical tours. You should also check out the Real Mary King's Close, which is a complex of narrow alleyways partially hidden beneath the Royal Exchange in the Old Town. The area has plenty of dark stories associated with it, so be prepared for some goosebumps.
Here are some spooky Edinburgh tours to check out:
On your second day in Edinburgh, venture away from the Old Town into the newer parts of the city.
Scottish National Gallery
Start you day with a visit to the Scottish National Gallery, located on The Mound beneath Edinburgh Castle. The best part about this museum (other than the great artwork)? It's free to visit.
Explore Princes Street
Princes is the main shopping street in Edinburgh. It's also home to the Princes Street Gardens and the gothic Scott Monument, which you can climb to the top of. Spend some time strolling along this famous street until you get to…
Located beyond the east end of Princes Street is Calton Hill, where you'll find various monuments (like the Nelson Monument and Robert Burns Monument) and some incredible views out over Edinburgh.
Lastly, walk through the New Town on foot to visit one of my favorite spots in Edinburgh: Dean Village. This little neighborhood is characterized by colorful historical houses and the Water of Leith running through it. It's a great place for a walk – but beware that you'll fell like you stepped back in time here!
To find Dean Village, take Bell's Brae down beneath the Dean Bridge, only about a 10- or 15-minute walk from Princes Street.
I'm dubbing your third day in Edinburgh “History Day,” because that's what all my suggestions seem to focus around.
National Museum of Scotland
Start your day with another museum: the National Museum of Scotland. This museum is dedicated to the history of (you guessed it) Scotland, but has exhibits covering things like art, design, world cultures, and even dinosaurs, too. And, like with most museums in the UK, this one is also free.
Visit an old cemetery
This may sound a bit weird, but I really enjoy visiting old cemeteries when I travel. They can be hauntingly beautiful, and this is definitely true of Greyfriars Kirkyard, the graveyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk in Edinburgh's Old Town. Greyfriars is famous for a couple of things, including Greyfriars Bobby, a little dog that guarded its former master's grave in the graveyard for 14 years. It also is *supposedly* where author JK Rowling got a few ideas for names in the Harry Potter series.
Located below the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle (on the opposite side as Princes Street Gardens) sits the Grassmarket. This historic market place is now filled with pubs, restaurants, and more of the city's incredible architecture. While you're there, be sure to head up West Bow street, which leads to one of my favorite streets in Edinburgh: Victoria Street.
Literary pub tour
Speaking of authors, did you know that Scotland (and Edinburgh more specifically) has produced a great number of writers and poets? Find out for yourself by going on a unique literary pub tour, which will have you tracing the city's literary history by visiting places frequented by the likes of Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott.
(Or, how about of the city?)
If you have more time
Find yourself with an additional day or two in Edinburgh? Then the other must-do in the city is definitely hiking to the top of Arthur's Seat if the weather is good. This ancient volcano sits above Holyrood Park and offers the best views of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth. The hike generally takes a couple of hours to complete, but you could easily stretch it to a half-day activity if you bring a picnic lunch.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Lastly, here are a few of my favorite places to stay in Edinburgh:
Mid-range hotel in the Old Town: – I like this hotel on Cowgate because it's close to the Royal Mile, and yet not super noisy. The rooms are bright and clean, the free wifi is fast, and you usually get free breakfast with your booking. ( | )
Apartment in the Old Town: – On my last visit to Edinburgh, I rented a one-bedroom apartment on George IV Bridge through Destiny Scotland. The apartment was gorgeous, and I had a view of Edinburgh Castle from my kitchen window! Definitely my favorite place to stay in Edinburgh thus far. ( | )
Luxury hotel in the Old Town: – If you want to stay right ON the Royal Mile, check out the Radisson Blue with its contemporary rooms. ( | )
Close to the train station: – I've stayed at this hotel twice when I had an early train to catch at Waverly Station. The hotel on Princes Street is clean and comfortable, and a great option if you don't care about staying in the Old Town. ( | )
Check out more UK accommodation here:
Where to eat in Edinburgh
Now that you have an idea of what there is to do in Edinburgh, here are a few suggestions of where to grab a bite to eat in the city. (And, contrary to what you've heard about Scottish food, there's actually a lot of great things to try beyond haggis!)
For pies: The Piemaker – No, not fruit pies; we're talking meat pies here! The Piemaker on South Bridge serves up cheap and tasty pies that are perfect for a takeaway meal.
For soup: Union of Genius – This is Edinburgh's first soup cafe!
For pizza: La Favorita – This pizzeria makes great wood-fired pizzas with homemade dough.
For dessert: The Elephant House – This cafe on George IV Bridge is famously known as being one of the places where JK Rowling would write her Harry Potter stories over cake and coffee (or maybe tea?). They do very tasty cakes and desserts.
For serious foodies: The Kitchin – This Michelin star restaurant has a “from nature to plate” philosophy, and serves up British/Scottish cuisine French-influenced flair.
Is anyone else as in love with Edinburgh as I am? What are some of your other favorite things to do there?